Hiking Back in Time
Agreeing on the next family trip is often about striking a delicate balance between the cost, the weather, finding a destination that promises charm and excitement, and ensuring everyone’s interests are somewhat aligned.
When my husband and I were discussing how to celebrate our milestone wedding anniversary in a way that also included our young children, we finally opted for a hiking adventure.
The old Nakasendo trail captured our imagination from the moment we read a small excerpt about it in our Japan travel guide. This ancient mountain route was once filled with samurai, traders and travelers journeying between Kyoto and Edo (now Tokyo) during the Edo period. The more than 60 post towns dotted along the trail’s length provided food, lodging and a place to rest weary bodies.
Those same charming towns, with their period wooden structures, ryokan inns, cobbled streets, local delicacies and souvenir shops, now lure day-trippers from Kyoto and Nagoya. We chose to hike a popular section of the Nakasendo that connects the well-preserved post towns of Magome and Tsumago in the Kiso Valley.
After weeks of poring over timetables, blogs and trail maps and devising an itinerary, we boarded an express train from Nagoya for a long weekend amid the verdant scenery of Gifu and Nagano. One local bus journey later, we felt like we had arrived in a different era.
Japan’s oft-touted omotenashi hospitality was in evidence everywhere. There were luggage-forwarding services, smiling tourist center staff armed with maps and best wishes, Wi-Fi-connected rest huts and path-side bells to ward off bears. As it happens, the bells proved a handy distraction for my daughter and her requests for kakigori shaved ice, Japan’s popular summer treat.
As we climbed up the side of the valley from Magome, the crowds faded away and we were soon surrounded by serene forests, waterfalls, streams and the clang of bells. Halfway to Tsumago, a “Free tea room” sign with a photo of British actress Joanna Lumley, who had visited the teahouse during the filming of her Japan documentary, caught our attention. It was a refreshing break from the heat and offered us a chance to speak to fellow travelers from around the globe.
The rolling terrain along this portion of the Nakasendo switched between picturesque hamlets and cedar forests that concealed gurgling creeks and roaring waterfalls. There were few signs or sounds of modern life. The scenery kept everyone interested and the children were the center of attention for passing hikers.
We walked on to the next town along the Kiso River. That evening, we soaked our tired limbs and feasted on a meal of local, seasonal dishes—just as travelers have done for centuries.
The adventure was complete, but I know many more lie ahead.
Words: Summeet Kaur Seyan
Illustration: Deep Singh Seyan
