Osaka Rising
Osaka has long been viewed as a transit point on the way to Kyoto or Kobe or as a business hub. But Japan’s second city is fast becoming a destination in its own right.
The city has established itself as a center of Japanese culture and cuisine, its streets and markets drawing millions of visitors each year. It’s been a remarkable transformation that I’m sure many Tokyo-based Members have missed.
This sprawling metropolis is cheap and easy to access from both within and outside Japan. Kansai International Airport’s second terminal, opened in 2012, is now dedicated to budget airlines. A combination of relaxed restrictions on tourist visas and the expansion of low-cost carrier routes from other Asian cities has resulted in a massive influx of visitors.
For domestic travelers, the bullet train departs Tokyo every 15 minutes for a journey of under two and a half hours to Osaka. Flying is straightforward, too. Haneda and Itami airports have been voted top for punctuality, and Japan’s two main carriers were rated in the top five airlines for time performance. Or for about half the price, you can fly with a budget airline to Kobe or Kansai.
Arrival by bullet train at dowdy Shin Osaka Station doesn’t do justice to what’s happened at nearby Osaka and Umeda stations. The center of the Umeda commercial and shopping district has been completely rebuilt, with a dramatic open-air roof, and enhanced by the new Grand Front o∞ce and shopping complex.
Osaka has gained much notoriety for its Japanese cuisine with a local flair. Compared with Tokyo, the city boasts a greater number of small, family-run shops, and they’re cheaper, too. The streets and alleys of Namba, Shinchi, Shinsaibashi and Nagahoribashi are lined with little eateries, offering a wide range of Japanese and international food. And no visit would be complete without a stop at one of the ubiquitous takoyaki fried octopus ball stands.
For gourmets, the Kansai capital has more than 200 Michelin Guide-rated restaurants, including four three-star, 20 two-star and 65 one-star spots, as well as 123 establishments with a Bib Gourmand, an award for high-quality food at a reasonable price. In this case, under ¥5,000 per person.
For a throwback to Showa Japan, take a wander to the Tenma district for an evening of ramshackle stands, robata barbecue joints, craft beer bars and even a new fine wine place. The alleyways here are a never-ending source of adventure, even for the most jaded traveler.
Osaka’s street scenes are mind-blowing. A walk through the covered arcade between Namba Station and Shinsaibashi is an experience unique to both Osaka and Japan. Tenma also has its own arcade, the longest in the country at 2.6 kilometers. Each July, the area hosts one of the city’s more unusual festivals, when a band of local energetic ladies parades a 200-kilo portable shrine on their shoulders. A true Osaka experience.
Club Members who haven’t visited Osaka recently will be surprised by its dynamic atmosphere and unique culture—something not so readily apparent in Tokyo.
Words: John Durkin
Illustration: Alison Kanegae
