The Art of Washoku

Take a trip through history to see—and taste—Japan’s culinary traditions.

Japanese food is loved around the world, but knowledge of the traditions and philosophy behind the food is limited.

Even for those living in Japan, many familiar ingredients and techniques may be taken for granted, their origins a mystery.

A+E Global Media Japan, led by Member John Flanagan, collaborated with Japan’s Agency for Cultural Affairs to shed light on these culinary traditions through The Art of Washoku, a documentary that aired on History in 40 international markets in March.

One historical tidbit that Flanagan says surprised him is the origin of umami, the sought-after zest associated with Japanese cuisine. “Emperor Tenmu, influenced by Buddhism, banned the eating of meat in 675, and the prohibition lasted for centuries,” he explains. “Chefs searched for ways to recreate the flavors without meat. They settled on fermentation techniques that led to the creation of culinary staples such as soy sauce, miso and dashi, the core stock of Japanese cuisine.”

Members can take a multisensory deep dive into such tidbits at a special event this month that combines a screening with a tasting of dishes explored in the documentary. “Viewers will gain in-depth background prior to sampling dishes and experiencing techniques,” says Flanagan. The evening has been organized by the Culture, Community & Entertainment Committee in collaboration with A+E’s award-winning History channel.

The project came about after Member Daniel Desmarais helped introduce A+E to a top official at the Agency for Cultural Affairs. Having heard that the agency was looking to promote washoku—or traditional Japanese cuisine—internationally, Flanagan’s team began looking for a way to pitch their ideas. But any chance to put their own love of Japanese food to film would have to wait several months until the agency announced an open tender. When the bids were reviewed, the A+E plan to focus on not only the food but also the history and philosophy won out.

“This was the agency’s first video production project on washoku, so it was not taken lightly,” Flanagan notes.

Seeing the documentary from concept to completion was a challenge, reveals Yasunori Fukui, head of production and programming and a Club Member. A+E was awarded the project last summer, but a long contract process delayed the start.

“We began working on it last fall, and the Agency for Cultural Affairs required that we finish and air it in key international markets before the end of their fiscal year in March.” Shooting took two months and postproduction took two and a half. “For a rich hour-long documentary with multiple locations across Japan and a variety of expert interviews, this schedule was very tight,” Fukui adds.

Appearing in the documentary is Sébastien Martin, who has served as chef de cuisine at the French Embassy in Tokyo since 2004. The opportunity, he says, allowed him to experience Japanese culinary culture far beyond its surface. “Washoku, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, is much more than a cuisine—it’s a philosophy of balance, respect for the seasons and masterful simplicity.”

By exploring Japan’s culinary traditions, Martin was able to lift the veil on ingredients and look at them differently, giving them a central role without ever masking them with superfluous techniques. “The importance of the rhythm of the seasons, the precision of the gesture, the attention paid to every detail—down to the tableware and the way it is presented—are lessons every chef should learn at least once in their life,” explains the native of Nantes, in western France, along the Loire River.

Martin says that Japan also introduced him to the notion of umami, that fifth flavor so subtle that it transforms the perception of a dish. “Dashi, fermented products like miso and soy sauce, seaweed, dried fish—all these elements open up an extraordinary field of culinary expression, including in French cuisine.”

Even as a seasoned chef, Martin found new paths to culinary excellence through washoku. “It has allowed me to rethink my craft with greater humility and respect for all living things, drawing inspiration from the intimate connection the Japanese have with nature and the seasons. Washoku is an inexhaustible source of inspiration that, every day, pushes me to seek a balance between tradition and creativity, between French culture and Japanese sensibility.”

Don’t miss this unique chance to gain a deeper appreciation for washoku.